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        我在愛情里吃過最美妙的東西

        時間:2019-10-07 09:26 來源:網絡 作者:文字帝 閱讀:
          以前認為,夾肉的饃,就是一個面疙瘩,還怪這饃火候不對:哎!師傅這個焦了吧!——師傅立時滿臉晦氣狀,現在想,當時他們心里,不定怎么咒我呢。
          
          后來被西安朋友上課:饃饃要九成面粉加一成發酵的面粉,烤個“虎背花心兒”狀,黑黃白參差斑斕,才酥才脆才香才嫩,才配得上臘汁肉;吃肉夾饃須得橫持,才能吃出連脆帶酥的鮮味,不辜負了好饃好肉汁。
          
          一開始吃,當然總希望肉夾饃里,肉夾得越多越好。本來嘛,這類面粉夾餡,不都該這般吃嗎?金槍魚三明治如是;饅頭卷紅燒肉如是;夾心餅干如是。肉夾饃嘛,最好是兩片饃薄如紙,中間夾一厚墩湯水淋漓的肉,火車進隧道那樣,整塊進嗓子眼。
          
          吃多了,慢慢熟了,才覺得饃是咚咚鑼鼓,肉是哇哇嗩吶,互相滲著搭著才好吃。肉多了,頭兩口解饞,后面就覺得嘴巴寂寞,沒聲音噼啪就和,這才醒悟:得有饃,不然太寂寞。
          
          單吃肉太膩了,何況是肥瘦相間的呢,得加料。有些店鋪為了將就人,是肯放些香菜的。后來才覺得,口感駁雜不純,肉汁也不膏腴了。臘汁肉是個神物,鮮爽不膩,肥肉酥融韌鮮,瘦肉絲絲飽滿,肉汁上天入地,把饃都滲通透了,吃起來就覺得鮮味跟擠出來似的,越冒越多。
          
          上海一些街區,遍地賣肉夾饃,就跟巴黎的土耳其烤肉似的。正宗不正宗,很容易吃到西安人開的店里,吃肉夾饃,再要一份西安的稠酒(用黃曲和小米釀的,甜香細軟),配一份酸菜炒米解油膩,一大頓飯,吃得稀里嘩啦地舒服。
          
          2006年秋天,那是我最窮的時候:那年剛高考完到上海來,兩人不知算計,稀里糊涂把錢花個精光。于是每天買早餐,都得滿家里沙發底床腳撿硬幣湊數;出去吃個飯,兩個人點一個菜就叫米飯,惹老板頻頻回頭看。
          
          我說:“從此要過窮日子了。”
          
          她說:“過就過吧!”
          
          家里打掃時從角落里掃出一兩枚硬幣,天作之喜,要立刻把這錢拿去買蛋糕來慶祝的。最后山窮水盡,只好買些米和青菜,加點鹽,熬一大鍋粥,如此喝了近一周,照鏡子才知道何謂面有菜色。偶爾出門,入冬不免穿得好些,有賣二手筆記本的不上眼,看我們倆衣飾以為有閑錢,上來低聲問:“要筆記本不?”我倆苦笑:“我們有筆記本,但是沒錢……”
          
          到那年十一月,我等來了筆稿費,也不大敢大用。十一月中旬,她得回學??荚?。臨走前,我們先把她回學校的車票錢算罷,最后剩了些紙幣,珍而重之地收著。那是周六午后,兩人沒吃早飯,都餓了大半天,就用剩的錢,買了兩個肉夾饃,人手一個,分著吃。
          
          那是十一月的午間,陽光晴暖,兩個已經窮了一個多月,不知道什么時候日子才能寬限些,當然也料不到此后十年到如今的生活,只是決定,就這樣天不怕地不怕過窮日子的人,在丁字路口的馬路牙子邊,背靠背坐在消防栓上,邊曬太陽,邊歡天喜地,雙手捧著,一口口吃得腮幫鼓起努著、滿嘴是油,就這樣高高興興分掉了各自的肉夾饃。
          
          我后來吃過的一切,沒一樣能和當時的肉夾饃相比。

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